Hello everyone, this is Nagata.
It’s been getting quite warm lately—actually, downright hot during the day. I hope you’re all doing well.
Today, I’d like to introduce our latest release from the Spring/Summer 2025 collection: the new “Grave” series, launched on May 16th.
The name “Grave” (pronounced grahv) is derived from French slang, where it’s used to mean things like “super,” “totally,” or “seriously.”
Background of the Project — A Reconstruction of a Past Best-Selling Series
Going back a little, when we were planning the 30th Anniversary Series “Archives” for the Spring/Summer 2024 season, we asked our staff which past models they thought should be reissued.
While it didn’t make the final cut at the time, there was one series that received strong support from many team members.
That was the “BACK” series from our Spring/Summer 2009 collection.
When it first debuted, the line consisted of six SKUs. The entire front panel was finished in velour, while the body featured a high-performance, waterproof fabric—1680-denier nylon oxford laminated with TORAY Dermizax. Inside, a vivid red tarpaulin lent the bags a bold yet refined look.
Back then, fully black items were still a rarity at master-piece, so the series proved a hit not only with customers but also with many of our own staff. That popularity came at a price, however: by combining thick leather, heavy-gauge base fabric, tarpaulin lining and metal hardware, the flagship “No.01220 Messenger Bag L” tipped the scales at more than 2,500 g. Oversized messenger bags were trending at the time, which only made that weight feel all the more apparent.
Taking those lessons to heart, we launched development of the new “Grave” series—drawing inspiration from the multi-material approach of the original “BACK” line, yet engineered from the ground up.
The Journey of Material Sourcing
Where Design Meets Function
Color Variations — Two Ways to Stand Out
Final Thoughts
The Journey of Material Sourcing
1: In Search of the Perfect Leather
Our first task was to hunt down materials. Because the design called for large panels of velour, we began with velours already proven in previous master-piece lines. Together with the sample-making and cutting teams at our in-house BASE Osaka factory, we tested countless options.
The leather needed enough suppleness to match the envisioned shapes. Realizing our usual stock was a touch too stiff, we ordered velour from numerous tanneries, carefully selecting hides with large, defect-free surfaces. We scrutinized fiber density and, by oil-tanning the hides, achieved a velour with a degree of water repellency. Lacking a grain layer, it breathes well, yet its thickness and body give the surface a warm, distinctive feel.
*Tip: Treat the velour with a commercially available nubuck / suede water-repellent spray on a regular basis to keep water and stains at bay.*
For the trim leather we chose a thick, waterproof hide processed with 3M’s SCOTCHGARD® finish—an in-house staple.
2: Body Fabric — A Three-Layer Original
For the main body we specified our proprietary three-layer fabric “MASTERTEX-09,” made with custom-ordered INVISTA CORDURA®. Because its appearance echoes that of the original BACK series, the choice was obvious from day one.
Compared with the 1680-denier oxford used in “BACK,” the warp remains 1680 d, but the weft switches to a lighter 840 d CORDURA® Hollofil AIR™ hollow fiber, trimming weight by over 20 %. A PU coating on the back, an L-VENT® waterproof breathable film and a tricot nylon lining complete the three-layer build, boosting water resistance.
3: Lining — Balancing Strength and Weight
Areas that need less strength—or where bulk would complicate sewing—use 210 d nylon oxford, while load-bearing zones step up to 420 d. The custom camel color offers easy visibility and hides dirt well.
4: Developing “m-strap 2” — Pursuing Carry Comfort
Even after weight-saving measures, leather, metal parts and stiffening materials inevitably add grams. To ensure comfort regardless, we evolved our original “m-strap” concept.
Debuting here is “m-strap 2,” a patent-pending accordion webbing with elastic woven directly into the nylon. To infuse brand DNA we combined our signature yellow and white polypropylene yarns with black nylon.
Perfecting the stretch and tension meant countless test runs—each requiring a complete loom setup. With tremendous help from the webbing mill, we reached a tape that showed just −0.7 % change in fatigue tests and withstood 419 N (≈ 42.7 kg) in strap-attachment trials—where stitching failed before the tape itself.
5: Five-Layer Shoulder Pads — 20+ Prototypes Later
The shoulder pads sandwich lightweight, resilient EVA with FUSION®—an innovative spacer knit from Asahi Kasei used in bedding and car seats for its cushioning and dimensional stability.
Closest to the body we added Outlast®, a NASA-developed phase-change fabric, plus a fine double-raschel mesh for softness. This multi-layer build, unthinkable back in 2009, delivers both cushioning and universal fit.
We produced over 20 prototypes, tweaking foam types, thicknesses and layering. Thanks to in-house production, we could iterate with our craftspeople until everyone was satisfied, all while planning an efficient mass-production method.
Where Design Meets Function
Except for the mini-shoulder No.03174, every model features a dual-compartment layout, letting you stow a laptop or tablet separately from the main cargo. The backpack, daypack and messenger even accommodate both simultaneously. Four zipper sliders on the main opening allow quick access from the top or side, while multiple interior pockets rival—or exceed—dedicated business bags.
■ Backpack No.03170 — The Storage King
Including exterior pockets, the No.03170 offers 21 individual storage zones—ready for any scenario. Both side pockets open from front or back via round, double zippers; inside, stretch-mesh pockets keep items in place. The right side adds a zipper pocket reachable while wearing the pack, while the left sports a Velcro pocket with an eyelet—perfect for your phone.
■ Daypack No.03171 — From Daily Errands to Business
The daypack’s sleek silhouette and balanced size suit everyday life and many workplaces alike. Personally, I find it the most versatile of the lineup.
■ Messenger No.03172 — A Shape All Our Own
Keeping dimensions manageable, we opted for a flap-less design that blends style and convenience. A unique silhouette—joining front and back panels of differing sizes with sweeping curves— demanded the most pattern-making time. The five-layer shoulder pad can be swapped left or right, and the buckle is a rare, Japan-made metal original that delivers both impact and exclusivity. A stabilizer strap comes standard.
■ Shoulder Bag No.03173 — Your Perfect Second Bag
We crafted this shoulder bag in the most proven size on the market, added a second compartment and fitted the five-layer shoulder pad. Ideal for daily use or travel, it’s the one bag you’ll always be glad to have. All four of the above models slip over suitcase handles for seamless trips.
■ Shoulder Pouch No.03174 — Minimal Yet Essential
The mini-shoulder keeps your smartphone safe in a foam-padded pocket with a bottom eyelet so you won’t miss incoming alerts. While it won’t fit a long wallet, it holds a compact wallet, wireless earbuds and other small essentials for hands-free mobility.
Color Variations — Two Ways to Stand Out
The black variant goes all-in on monochrome for a refined, luxurious feel.
The navy version, by contrast, mixes camel velour, khaki trim leather and nylon tape, and nickel-plated hardware—a distinctly master-piece multicolor palette.
Final Thoughts
Packed with more details than we can possibly cover here, the “Grave” series sits at the premium end of our casual range. Yet anyone—especially those in manufacturing—will see that the price reflects the rarity of such meticulously crafted, made-in-Japan pieces. That is the unique value master-piece brings.
We invite you to experience “Grave” firsthand at our flagship stores, authorized dealers nationwide, or our online shop. Our staff will be happy to share the story behind every detail.
If you can’t make it in person, please explore the series on our website—we’ve uploaded more images than usual this time. Thank you for reading to the end.
— Nagata
▼ Discover the full “Grave” series here.
